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DATE: 27/01/2026
For a lot of us, winter isn’t riding season — it’s survival season.
The roads are wet, covered in salt, and full of potholes hiding under puddles. Every ride turns into a battle against filthy spray, numb fingers, and the horrible feeling of hearing grit sandblasting your pride and joy. Instead of enjoying the ride, you’re just trying to get home without the bike dissolving underneath you.
So the bike gets cleaned, dried, and tucked away in the garage. Maybe it’s on a paddock stand, maybe under a cover, maybe you give it a last look before shutting the door thinking, “See you in spring.”
At first it feels sensible. Protective, even.
Then a few weeks go by.
You’re in the garage grabbing something, you see the bike sitting there, and you start to feel a bit guilty. It looks… neglected. Like it’s being ignored. That’s when the temptation creeps in:
“I’ll just start it for a few minutes. Can’t be good for it just sitting there…”
And that’s exactly where many well-meaning owners accidentally start doing more harm than good.
Don't be tempted to start those bikes over winter!
It’s cold. The bike’s tucked away in the garage. You walk past it, feel a bit guilty, and think:
“I’ll just fire it up for a couple of minutes… keep everything moving.”
Sounds sensible, right?
It’s not. In fact, regularly starting your bike during winter storage — without actually riding it — can do more harm than good.
Let’s break down why.
When you start a motorcycle engine from cold, several things happen:
Fuel mixture runs richer
Combustion produces water vapour
Metal engine components heat up and expand
That’s all perfectly normal if you then ride the bike properly and get everything fully up to operating temperature.
But if you only let it run for 2–3 minutes in a cold garage?
You’re creating heat without the duration needed to burn off moisture.
Short winter startups are basically a condensation factory.
Here’s why:
Cold engine internals meet warm combustion gases
Moisture forms inside the engine
The engine never gets hot enough to evaporate it
Water ends up sitting in the oil at the bottom of the engine
In a cold garage, this is even worse. The engine cools back down quickly, and all that moisture just stays there, mixing with the oil and internal components.
Over time, this can lead to:
Internal corrosion
Sludge formation in the oil
Reduced lubrication quality
Long-term engine wear
Air-cooled engines are especially vulnerable because they take longer to heat evenly and depend heavily on airflow from actually riding.
It’s a common thought — that starting the bike occasionally is “better than letting it sit.”
The reality?
An engine that:
heats up briefly
expands
then cools back down
…without ever reaching full operating temperature is going through stress cycles while also building up moisture inside.
That’s worse than simply leaving it alone in stable storage.
This isn’t just about one type of engine or one model. Whether it’s:
A big air-cooled twin
A liquid-cooled four
Your pride and joy or the commuter hack
Short, stationary winter startups do more harm than good.
If the bike can’t be ridden properly for at least 20–30 minutes to fully heat the oil, exhaust, and engine internals, it’s better not to start it at all.
If your bike is stored up for the season:
✅ Keep the battery on a maintainer or smart charger
✅ Store it somewhere as dry and stable in temperature as possible
✅ Use fuel stabiliser if it’s sitting for months
✅ Leave it alone mechanically
❌ Don’t start it “just for a few minutes”
❌ Don’t rev it in the garage thinking you’re helping
The first start of the year should be followed by a proper ride, not a driveway idle.
The Golden Rule of Winter Storage
If you can’t ride it — don’t start it.
It might feel like you’re neglecting the bike, but you’re actually protecting the engine from moisture, corrosion, and unnecessary wear.
Let it hibernate properly… then wake it up the right way on a decent riding day, with a real run that gets everything hot, flowing, and happy again.
Your engine will thank you for it.
Modern petrol doesn’t like sitting around for months — especially the ethanol-blended fuel most of us are using now.
As fuel ages, it starts to break down. Lighter elements evaporate, and what’s left behind becomes less combustible and more sticky. In bad cases, it can form varnish-like deposits in fuel systems and carbs, making spring startups harder than they need to be.
That’s where fuel stabiliser comes in.
Fuel stabiliser is an additive designed to slow down fuel degradation and help prevent deposits forming while the bike is laid up. It’s cheap, easy to use, and can save a lot of hassle later.
Add stabiliser to the tank following the dosage instructions on the bottle
Fill the tank — a full tank reduces the air space where moisture can form
Run the engine briefly (just long enough to get treated fuel into the fuel lines and carbs/injectors)
That short run is different from regular winter startups — you’re only doing it once, specifically to circulate treated fuel through the system before storage.
For carburetted bikes, this works perfectly alongside running the carbs dry afterwards, so treated fuel protects the tank and lines, but stale fuel isn’t left sitting in the carb bowls all winter.