Yamaha MT-01 useful information

Yamaha stopped producing the Yamaha MT-01 in 2012, it wasn’t initially successful as they had hoped but now its a sought after bike, information is fairly hard to come buy. However if you look in the right places you will find it.

Here is a list of some very useful stuff 

MY 05 Yamaha MT-01

The UK owners facebook group is fairly new, I created it last year to try and get the UK owners in one place to share info and hopefully organise rides. It’s fairly active and has some knowledgeable guys ready to help out!
Yamaha MT-01 UK owners

As i get to grips with the bike I will be putting more and more how to videos and adding more general content as I go!
Check out TOMSTC on YouTube 

Accessories and Carbon Bolt On's

The best place to look for accessories is ebay, there are lots of used items.
However there are also a few other places.
Want some carbon styling check out this German site
Carbon Styling
Lots of great products to make your bike really stand out.
Below are some examples of what’s available

Yamaha MT-01 Manuals

Yamaha MT-01 Service Manual 2005.pdf
Yamaha MT-01 Service MAnual 2007 on
MT-01 User Manual

Yamaha MT-01 FAQ's

This has been put together over on a German Forum it’s very useful and helped me out a lot when buying the bike.

Extract below 

Q: What models are on the market?

Yamaha MT-01 2005-2006

Yamaha MT-01 2007-

Yamaha MT-01SP 2008,2009

Q: What is the difference between them?

A: 2005-2006 models are what most people have as Yamaha produced them a lot. 2007- models were revised just a bit: 6-piston front callipers w/ 310mm disks instead of 4-piston ones w/ 320mm disks (*), integrated front brake and clutch master cylinders, different shape mirrors, and few other small bits and pieces. SPs are “limited edition” models, they feature Ohlins suspension as the main advantage.

(*) Please note, here and after, some specifications are given as found in Yamaha official materials. They might differ from the actual measured ones.

Q: What are color schemes?

Deep Armor (blue frame – dark violet tank), years 2005-2006

Rock Slate (silver frame – light blue tank), year 2006

Lava Red (black frame – red/black tank), year 2007

Midnight Black (black frame – black tank), years 2007-2009

Competition White (black frame – white tank), years 2007-2008

Silver Sand (silver frame – silver/orange tank), year 2008

Graphite (silver frame – graphite tank), year 2009

Also SP models have their own color schemes.

Q: What are the technical specs?

Q: What genuine accessories are available?

Q: Where can I get the Owner’s Manual?

A: You can check these at Yamaha MT website.


Q: What are Yamaha MT-01 Stage 1,2,3 kits about?

A: They are aimed to boost power performance of the bike. To what extend this can be truly achieved is subjective, but they certainly boost money transfers from your pocket to Yamaha. In short, Stage 1 has Akrapovic silencers, Stage 2 has Akrapovic full exhaust system and a different ECU, Stage 3 also includes different engine components like higher compression pistons.

Q: Is there ABS available?

A: No.

Q: What are non-official resources on the Internet?

MT Owners Club (MTOC), English, www.mtoc.org.uk

Q: What is the bike history?

A: Yamaha first presented it at 1999 Tokyo Motor Show. It was planned as a successor to the highly popular V-Max, but this was a miss. The bike is different from V-Max in many respects, and, in fact, is different from any other stock bike on the market. Its engine was adopted from Yamaha Warrior cruiser bike, while its frame and suspension were like those of Yamaha R1 supersport bike.

Q: Is MT-01 on sale in US?

A: No, not officially.


Q: Will I get a rocket-like thrust from the bike like no one has?

A: Many owners believe MT-01 is overestimated in terms of power performance. Yamaha claims 90ps power and 150nm torque, and this is true as seen from dyno runs. However, in practice, it feels not more than a 1000cc sport V-twin, e.g. Suzuki TL or Honda VTR. Remember MT-01 weights around 60kg more than those bikes, so probably the extra torque is eaten up by the extra weight.

Q: How does the engine feel like?

A: Awesome. MT-01 has a long-stroke engine as opposed to short-stroke ones found in sport V-twins. Its behaviour differs. It has even more pull at low revs, starting right from 900rpm idle, but is flat from 4000rpm and up to 5500rpm red line. Most people will enjoy it at 2000-3000rpm pace, while still having enough thrust for overtaking with a twist of a hand at any gear.

Q: What are the factory bike dyno figures?

A: Example is ~85PS power reached around 4250rpm and ~145NM torque reached around 3500rpm.

Q: Can simple mods improve MT-01 power performance, like PowerCommander, Akrapovic exhausts, K&N air filter?

A: This point is very subjective, while the answer is simple: mildly. The gain in performance can be noticeable, but not more than that. Yamaha Stage 3 kit with higher compression pistons improves performance at high RPM, while one can think of bigger bore cylinders and/or supercharges to change things drastically. There are aftermarket companies in Europe that offer such upgrades, one can do a search thru MTOC forum.

Q: Will it do wheelies without using the clutch?

A: Yes, 1st gear only, but you might need to use your body. Again, mind its weight!

Q: What about PowerCommander for the bike?

A: There is PC3 for MT-01 available with few maps to download. Due to MT-01 ECU design and since it uses O2-sensor, PC will be unable to re-map anything below ~2500rpm. Sadly enough, this is the range where some joy lies with the bike. Stage 2 ECU doesn’t use O2-sensor, so PC will be able to re-map there. Also, as with any other bike, custom tuning is recommended in each particular case instead of using public maps. Note the factory FI values differ for the front and rear cylinders, and this can be considered with PC tuning as well.

Dynojet part no. 414-411, same for all MT-01 models

Dynojet plans to introduce PC5 and also the O2-sensor cheat box for the bike, but they are still not here for the time being.


Q: What is Stage 1 kit?

A: It has two Akrapovic silencers (end cans) in it. They are piece of art indeed made of titanium. Yamaha states that the kit should be necessarily ordered together with either Muffler Rings, or with Carbon Heat Shields and a Single Seat Kit. These are additional Yamaha genuine accessories.

5YU-W0750-10-00 or -11-00 (part no. Stage 1 kit)

The first one confirms to EURO2, and the second to EURO3. There is no visual difference between them. Most likely they have different catalytic converter inserts, or are just the same in any respect.

Q: OK, what about Muffler Rings?

A: If you go this way, Akrapovic silencers are installed inside the stock plastic housing, and this will hide all the beauty. Muffler Rings are put at ends as the factory ones will not feet any longer.

5YU-W0740-55-00 (part no. Muffler Rings)

Q: OK, what about Carbon Heat Shields and a Single Seat Kit?

A: If you go this way, Akrapovic silencers will be visible and shine, as all of the side and bottom plastic housing is removed. However, this option costs nearly the same as Stage 1 kit alone!

5YU-W0740-00-00 (part no. Carbon Heat Shields)

5YU-W0771-00-00 (part no. Single Seat Kit)

Q: Can I install Stage 1 kit on its own?

A: Yes, but this has less sense or looks ugly. The compromise can be to order just Carbon Heat Shields, remove the side and bottom plastic housing, but leave the stock seat in place. Note this is not a Yamaha approved way, but it can be accomplished with some hacking. Search MTOC forum for more details.

Q: Shall I install catalytic converter inserts that come with Akrapovic silencers?

A: Yes, because the stock ones are removed, while Stage 1 kit has to be street legal. However, remove them if you use PC, as they will be permanently damaged with wrong exhaust gases produced by it. You can detach PC and put inserts back anytime if you need to pass emission tests for some reason.

Q: How does Akrapovic silencers sound like?

A: They sound OK. Mind their relatively small size! A 1670cc engine could produce a better (deeper) sound, but bigger (bigger bore) silencers are required.

Q: Can I remove “db-killer” baffles from Akrapovic silencers? Can I use different ones?

A: Yes, removing baffles immediately gives a richer sound on idle and low-rpms, however on mid- and high-rpms the bike starts to sound like a knackered diesel (please note this perception is definitely a subjective one!) just because the silencers are small and can not handle the exhaust pressure. There are aftermarket baffles of smaller size and larger diameter which is a compromise between Stage 1 ones and no baffles at all. Search MTOC forum for details.

Q: Can I order Akrapovic silencers directly from Akrapovic?

A: No, you should go Yamaha way.

Q: What is Stage 2 kit?

A: It has Akrapovic full exhaust system made of titanium, and a new ECU. Yamaha states that the kit should be necessarily ordered together with Carbon Heat Shields and a Single Seat Kit. See Stage 1 above for details.

5YU-W0750-20-00 (part no. Stage 2 kit)

Q: Are Akrapovic silencers different from those of Stage 1?

A: No, but they have different “db-killer” baffles. They are shorter and larger diameter ones than those of Stage 1. One can find them sounding better.

Q: Does Stage 2 use EXUP and O2-sensor?

A: No.

Q: Is Stage 2 street legal?

A: No, but do not tell anyone.

Q: Can I order Stage 2 ECU separately?

5YU-8591A-70-00 (part no. Stage 2 ECU)

Q: What is Stage 3 kit?

A: It has Akrapovic full exhaust system like that of Stage 2, yet another ECU, higher compression pistons, performance camshafts, re-enforced clutch and valve springs, a velocity stack, and a gasket kit. Yamaha states that the kit should be necessarily ordered together with Carbon Heat Shields and a Single Seat Kit. See Stage 1 above for details.

5YU-W0750-30-00 (part no. Stage 3 kit)

Q: Is there power performance increase with Stage 3?

A: One can expect a 10-15% increase in power reached at higher RPM. Example is nearly 100ps power reached around 4750rpm and nearly 160nm torque reached around 3500rpm.


Q: Is there (further) power performance increase if I combine Stage 1,2,3 with PC?

A: Yes, some increase can be expected.

Q: Can I fit Stage 1,2,3 myself?

A: Stage 1,2 kits require only minor mechanical skills. Fitting instructions are included. Stage 3 involves removing the engine and disassembling a fair half of it. While fitting instructions are included, it is advised you get a copy of the Service Manual as well.


Q: Can I disable O2-sensor, disconnect, or cheat it?

A: No. When disconnected, it doesn’t light CHECK ENGINE. ECU is stupid enough to think O2-sensor is still there, and it tries to “learn” from it. However, with no actual input, ECU finally modifies A/F mixture to the extent when the bike starts to misfire because of running too rich or lean.

Q: I did something, and now my bike starts to misfire within 15-20 minutes of riding. This happens on RPM < 2500, but I can keep it OK on higher RPM. Ignition off and on cures this for a while.

A: You probably disconnected O2-sensor, or it became damaged. See above.

Q: Can I do the “flapper” mod? What about additional holes in the air box?

A: Yes. You can either block the vacuum hose leading to the flapper pump in front of the tank with a clamp, or you can remove the whole system including the electrical solenoid, the one-pass valve, and the compensation barrel, and block the end of the vacuum hose coming from the throttle body with a bolt and a clamp around it. Also you can drill additional holes in the air box, right before the air filter of course, not after it!

A: Can I do IAT sensor mod?

Q: Yes. However, not like on other vehicles. If you just disconnect IAT sensor, ECU will substitute a default value corresponding to -30°C instead. Moreover, it will light CHECK ENGINE and put itself into a “limp” mode with O2-sensor ignored. One can leave it as is, or use PC that will be able to remap below ~2500rpm now. Note public maps won’t naturally fit, as the bike runs richer now on its own. Drawbacks are CHECK ENGINE being constantly on, and FI ignoring the actual air temperature.

Q: Shall I mess with EXUP?

A: Probably no, at least not with the factory FI. Disabling EXUP and leaving it in the fully open position gives an immediate flat spot around 2000rpm. This can be smoothed over and nearly eliminated with Stage 2 ECU and/or PC. Note Stage 2 kit has the full exhaust system on its own without EXUP.


Q: What gasoline shall I use?

A: Yamaha recommends unleaded gasoline with RON 91 at least. It is called Regular in most countries.

Q: What engine oil shall I use?

A: This question is not as easy as it sounds. Yamaha states that any SAE 20W40 oil will do, API grade SE or higher, containing no “energy conserving” additives. The rest is subjective. Some Yamaha vendors recommend Yamalube 4-Stroke 20W50 mineral or semi-synthetic oils. Similar OEM motorcycle mineral or semi-synthetic oils will do as well, e.g. IPONE 15W50 Road Twin. However, be very careful with modern fully synthetic oils with hi-tec elements as they can lead to the premature clutch end. Well, this is not a proven fact, but few reports exist. There is a long discussion on this at MTOC forum.

Q: My clutch started to slip.

A: Probably you need to replace it. Think of a different engine oil to use. If this is not the case, but perhaps just your riding preferences, consider ordering a re-enforced clutch spring from Stage 3 kit.

5YU-16334-70-00 (part no. Stage 3 re-enforced clutch spring)

Q: What is the oil quantity?

A: Total: 5.00l. Change with the filter replacement: 4.10l. Change without the filter replacement: 3.70l. If you have a 4L oil can and want to replace the filter, it is generally OK to put 100ml of the used oil back.

Q: How do I change oil and check the oil level?

A: Follow instructions in the Owner’s Manual. It is important to check the oil level within the short time after shutting down the engine, as oil escapes from the oil tank with time.

Q: Do I need to adjust valves?

A: Very rarely if ever, as the engine has hydraulic valve lifters.

Q: My engine sounds like knocking if I push it hard (open wide) on low RPM. This is especially true on the hot engine.

A: Right, it might be knocking or close to it indeed, sometimes even with Regular gasoline (RON 91) recommended by the manual. You can try to switch to Premium, and the problem will be less apparent, but it won’t disappear completely. Probably smth might be wrong with ECU design that controls the ignition advance.

Q: The engine is air-cooled, so can I overheat and damage it by chance?

A: This was never reported. There is an engine temperature sensor, and it should shut down the engine when reaching the critical temperature. There is no gauge on the speedometer panel, but you can read the actual temperature value on the LCD screen in DIAG mode.

Q: What are the spark plugs?

A: NGK DPR7EA-9 / DENSO X22EPR-U9. Spark plug gap 0.8-0.9mm. Note there are 4 plugs, 2 per cylinder.

Q: I tried to start the bike one day, but it felt reluctant, gave a terrible metallic grinding sound, and did not start.

A: MT-01 starter motor is very demanding to the battery condition and charge as it requires a lot of current to crank the huge V2 engine. When the battery is nearly end of life or is simply undercharged, it starts to crank the engine slower than usual. In the extreme case, it won’t be able to pass the top dead point. This is when this sound can occur. Or it can not, and rather the relay start to chatter as it happens on other bikes. No reports exist that any of these can lead to the consecutive engine damage. If it happens regularly, consider replacing the battery in the first place.

Q: My fuel pump died all of a sudden. And now I remember there always was a strange gurgling sound out of the tank when I turned the ignition on.

A: Unfortunately the fuel pump breakdown was reported frequently. Yamaha replaces it under the warranty, but this is not on a official recall list. The gurgling sound appears to have nothing in common with this problem.

5YU-13907-03-00 (part no. New fuel pump)


Q: How does the bike handle?

A: A brand new MT-01 handles very well taking into account its weight. Well, not quite as good as modern sport bikes of course, but better than most classical bikes, e.g. Suzuki Bandit 1200 or Honda CB1300. And definitely much better than any cruiser or custom bike. It can be used on a track without problems.

Q: My bike has some mileage on it and I find it handles terrible.

A: Yes, it appears to be a hidden problem here. A guess is that the front fork springs may deteriorate with time as the front fork comes directly from R1 bike which is lighter by a lot. Well, this is not a proven fact, there might be other reasons, but things start to go definitely wrong — after 5000km mileage or so one can feel it gradually becomes too soft, mushy, difficult to handle and turn at low speeds, twisting on uneven surfaces like road markings.

Q: Does Yamaha accept this as a problem?

A: It has MT-01SP with Ohlins suspension.

Q: Can I improve handling by adjusting suspension settings?

A: Yes, and the bike will handle much better, however still not as good as a brand new one. Ideally the suspension setup should be conducted by a professional and experienced guy. A newcomer might loose weeks trying to figure out correct settings.

Q: OK, can you give exact settings?

A: Probably not, as this is very subjective and depends on your weight. You might try to set the preload at first, and then play with the damping, as below

front/rear preload – around 35-40mm front and 30-35mm rear rider’s sag

front comp – hard as possible, while the nose still dives safely enough, 3-7 clicks out

rear comp – so it doesn’t push your bottom too hard on road bumps, 6-10 clicks out

front rebound – so the front doesn’t feel mushy, just very few clicks out

rear rebound – so the rear keeps with the track, about the same as the rear comp

There are also other ways to setup the bike. Search MTOC forum for numerous discussions on the topic where people posted their settings and weight.

Q: How can I further improve handling?

A: You can go for aftermarket springs. Hyperpro does the progressive spring kit for the front and rear. It can be ordered as standard or lowering the bike by 30mm (in fact, around 25mm). Hyperpro part no. SP-YA17-SSC01 (standard), SP-YA17-SSC02 (lowering).


Another way is to replace the whole front fork and rear shock with those from Ohlins, as it is on MT-01SP bike. This is definitely a more costly upgrade. Ohlins part no. FG 337 (front fork), YA 501 (rear shock).

http://www.ohlins.nl/index.php?langID=1 … odelID=866

http://www.ohlins.nl/index.php?langID=1 … delID=1003


Q: I noticed the rear spring feels much stiffer than the front ones. Can I adjust this? By the way, are they linear or progressive?

A: Yes, this is right. You can not adjust spring stiffness with suspension settings. All springs are linear, however the rear suspension is a bit progressive by design.

Q: Is it possible to lower the bike?

A: Yes. Hyperpro spring kit does this, see above. There are also few aftermarket “dog bones” available; in this case you will also need to rise the fork tubes in their clamps. No aftermarket low seats are known, but it is possible to alter the stock one with some hacking.

Q: Does it worth trying to rise the fork tubes in their clamps a bit to improve turns?

A: Yes, lowering the front end by 3-4mm’s might definitely help with a particular suspension setup.

Q: Does it worth trying a bigger rear tyre?

A: You can try a 200/50 one, and the front/rear height balance will become around the same as above. Also the turning capability will not degrade noticeably. Unfortunately you can not go for a 210/50 tyre or anything wider without the swing arm modifications.

Q: Yamaha recommends “Suspension Oil 01” for the front fork. What is its viscosity?

A: It is 2.5W.

Q: I tightened the rear shock lock-nut too much, and now I cannot unscrew it with the small wrench included.

A: Few people did this. You need to go to the garage, lift the bike or put it on its side, and use a bigger wrench. It appears to be safe not to tighten it that much, just an average torque with your hand is enough.

Q: I found the fork seals are leaking after I left the bike untouched over the winter time.

A: Unfortunately this was reported frequently, but is not on a official recall list. You might try to use a thicker fork oil, say 10W, to eliminate the problem, but then also relax the front damping adjusters.

Q: I found the steering bearings end up too quickly.

A: Unfortunately this was reported few times. Yamaha uses ball bearings there instead of tapered ones found in other bikes. Ball bearings can last shorter, thou it looks like Yamaha promises otherwise if they are lubricated every 20’000km. Search MTOC forum for discussion, and how to replace them with aftermarket bearings.

Q: What about the stock tyres?

A: Most bikes come with Metzeler ME Z4 tyres which are considered average even within the sport-touring niche. MT-01 deserves better ones. For example, Sportec M3 if you decide to stick with Metzeler. Or it can be Pirelli Diablo, like MT-01SP has, which are really close to the above. Many non-professional pilots will benefit from replacing stock tyres ASAP, at least the front one, otherwise their braking performance can be seriously compromised. And since there is no ABS, we speak about safety here as well!

Q: What are the factory suspension settings?

Front: preload 2nd ring from the top showing, compression 7, rebound 15 clicks out

Rear: preload 150mm compressed spring length, compression 10, rebound 12 clicks out

Q: What are the rims and tyres sizes? What is the tyres pressure?

Front: rim 17M/C x MT3.50, tyre 120/70 ZR17 M/C (58W), pressure: 250kPa

Rear: rim 17M/C x MT6.00, tyre 190/50 ZR17 M/C (73W), pressure: 290kPa

Q: What is the chain and sprockets sizes?

A: Chain: 114 links. Sprockets: 17 teeth front, 39 teeth rear.


Q: Where can I get Yamaha Service Manual and Parts Catalogue?

A: They are restricted, but you can ask people at MTOC forum for a reference, or check with the Hungarian guys.


Q: What is the average mileage on the full tank and after the reserve light comes on?

A: With 15L full tank it can be close to 200km, and it can be close to 40km on reserve, which is 3L. However, consider not more than 175km and 35km respectively to be on a safe side. This applies to the touring pace only.

Q: How do I pour all 15L into the bike?

A: Hold it straight up and be very, very patient.

Q: Do vibrations give problems?

A: Yes, but during long runs only. Thou Yamaha did its best to make them as mild as possible for a Big Twin engine, they are still there after half a day ride.

Q: What about a windshield?

A: There is no stock windshield. On speeds above 120km/h the wind starts to give problems, but honestly there are more problems from vibrations there. There are small genuine windshields available.

5YU-W0751-00-00 or -10-00 (part no. Alu Screen smaller or bigger)

5YU-W0710-00-00 or -10-00 or -20-00 (part no. Fly Screen, different colors)

Q: Is there any storage space? Are there any genuine extra storage systems?

A: Just enough to hold a small toolkit. Unfortunately, no. There are few aftermarket products, and you can search MTOC forum for details.

Q: What is that construction below the rear seat?

A: Man, this is an electrical fan motor to cool down the stock plastic housing that might warp under the exhaust heat! Never seen this before? Very few people did.

Q: Can I disconnect it? Can I remove it?

A: Yes, you can disconnect it once you remove the stock plastic housing. Note if you disconnect the temperature sensor as well, then CHECK ENGINE light comes on. However, you probably do not want to remove it once you stay with the stock tail piece. The fan motor acts as a load bearing part for the tail construction. Once removed, the small metal frame under it brakes in some time, and you might loose the whole tail with the number place, etc.

Q: I can see the paint peels.

A: Yes, this happens, but very mildly. Areas to watch are wheel rims and engine cooling ribs.


Q: What is the battery type?

A: GS GT14B-4 / YUASA YT14B-4 or -BS

Q: What are the main bulbs type?

A: LO beam HB4, HI beam H3.

Q: How do I change between miles and kilometers?

– with the ignition key ON

– press and hold SELECT button for at least 2 sec

Q: How do I adjust time?

– with the ignition key ON

– press and hold both SELECT and RESET buttons for at least 2 sec

– press RESET button to set hours

– press SELECT button

– press RESET button to set minutes

– press SELECT button

Q: How do I change speedometer illumination?

– with the ignition key OFF

– press and hold SELECT button

– then turn the ignition key ON

– and continue to hold SELECT button for at least 5 sec

– press RESET button to adjust the tachometer panel brightness

– press SELECT button

– press RESET button to adjust LCD brightness

– press SELECT button

– press RESET button to adjust the tachometer needle brightness

– press SELECT button

Q: How do I enter and use DIAG mode?

– with the ignition key OFF

– press and hold RESET button

– then turn the ignition key ON

– and continue to hold RESET button for at least 8 sec

– press SELECT button, after “dIAG” appears on LCD

– press and hold both SELECT and RESET buttons for at least 2 sec

– switch ENGINE STOP button (the red one) off

– press SELECT button to cycle thru sensors/actuators

– press ENGINE STOP button on to read sensor value / execute actuator

For example, if you want to check the engine temperature, press SELECT few times to go to the number “11” and switch ENGINE STOP button on. Note that with some sensors/actuators you need to do additional things, like spin the wheel, or crank the engine. Check the Service Manual for details.

Q: What are ECU fault codes in brief?

12 – crankshaft position sensor

15 – throttle position sensor (TPS)

13 – cylinder #1 intake air pressure sensor (MAP)

14 – cylinder #1 intake air pressure sensor (MAP)

25 – cylinder #2 intake air pressure sensor (MAP)

26 – cylinder #2 intake air pressure sensor (MAP)

17 – EXUP servo motor

18 – EXUP servo motor

22 – air temperature sensor (IAT)

28 – engine temperature sensor (ECT)

29 – decompression solenoid

38 – decompression solenoid

30 – vehicle has overturned

33 – cylinder #1 ignition coils

34 – cylinder #1 ignition coils

35 – cylinder #2 ignition coils

36 – cylinder #2 ignition coils

37 – idle valve (ISC)

42 – speed sensor or neutral switch

43 – ECU (battery) voltage

46 – ECU (battery) voltage

62 – muffler temperature sensor

63 – muffler temperature sensor

50 – faulty ECU

Q: What is sensors and actuators test table in brief?

01 – throttle angle (TPS)

03 – cylinder #1 intake air pressure (MAP)

04 – cylinder #2 intake air pressure (MAP)

05 – air temperature (IAT)

07 – vehicle speed pulse

08 – lean angle cut-off

09 – ECU (battery) voltage

11 – engine temperature (ECT)

12 – muffler temperature

20 – side-stand switch

21 – neutral switch

30 – cylinder #1 ignition coils

31 – cylinder #1 ignition coils

32 – cylinder #2 ignition coils

33 – cylinder #2 ignition coils

36 – cylinder #1 injector

37 – cylinder #2 injector

49 – intake solenoid (“flapper”)

50 – fuel pump

51 – muffler cooling fan

52 – headlight

53 – EXUP servo motor

54 – idle valve (ISC)

55 – decompression solenoid


Following official recall notices from Yamaha are known in UK. Check MTOC forum for VINs to see if your bike is affected.

(1) TPS sensor


An improperly designed Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) could cause an intermittently unstable idle when the motorcycle is stopped or during low-speed operation. The engine could stall as a result. If the engine stalls after the operator disengages the clutch in a low gear while riding, the rear tire might slip momentarily if the operator abruptly re-engages the clutch. This could lead to loss of control of the motorcycle.

(2) Suspension


As part of Yamaha’s policy of constantly monitoring the quality and performance of its products, we regret to announce that the factory has identified a potential defect with your macine whereby under certain circumstances the suspension link arm bearing housing, may become weakened, particularly when exposed to road salt in winter months. In extreme cases this may result in a crack developing in the link arm bearing housing and ultimately breaking, which could potentially cause the rear suspension to collapse. For safety reasons therefore, we would like to advise you to contact your authorised yamaha dealer at your earliest convenience, quoting your machines chasis number and current mileage to arrange a mutually convenient appointment for them to replace the suspension link arm and associated parts with new modified components.

(3) Mirrors


Under certain circumstances, due to vibration, a crack may develop at the rear view mirror pivot point and in extreme cases, the mirror head(s) may become detached, causing a safety issue primarily to other road users or bystanders.




Item Action Period Road use est.

Spark plugs clean and regap every 10k (*)

Spark plugs replace every 20k

Valves check, adjust if necessary every 20k

Air filter replace every 40k

Brake pads replace worn out limit front 15k

Brake pads replace worn out limit rear 30k

Tyres check pressure regularly

Tyres replace worn out limit front 25k

Tyres replace worn out limit rear 15-20k

Throttle body adjust synchronization every 10k

Engine oil check oil level, leakage regularly

Engine oil replace every 10k

Engine oil filter replace every 20k

Chain replace worn out limit 15-20k

Sprockets replace worn out limit front 15-20k

Sprockets replace worn out limit rear 30-40k

Steering bearings lubricate every 20k

Steering bearings check, replace if necessary extra free play, roughness

Suspension bearings check, replace if necessary extra free play, roughness

Wheel bearings check, replace if necessary extra free play, roughness

Front fork check oil leakage regularly

Rear shock check oil leakage regularly

Minor moving parts lubricate every 10k

Chassis fasteners check, tighten if necessary every 10k

Brake & clutch fluids check level regularly

Brake & clutch fluids replace every 2-4 years

Battery replace worn out limit 3-4 years

Lightning and horn check, replace if necessary regularly

(*) mileage is in kilometers